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★★★★

Tuscany, Italy, $22

Limited to one word to describe this wine, I’d say “energetic.” It has the classic chianti flavors of dried cherry and cocoa from the sangiovese grape, with hints of rosemary and sage. While there’s an earthy element in stony minerality, this wine seems to reach for the sun with its brightness. The importer says this wine won the annual chianti consorzio tasting, in which winemakers evaluate one another’s’ wines. Alcohol by volume: 13.5 percent. Imported and distributed by Le Storie: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Calvert Woodley. Available in Virginia at Branch & Vine in Richmond; Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean; Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church; Grape + Bean and Unwined (Bradlee) in Alexandria; Oakton Wine Shop in Oakton; Osteria da Nino in Arlington; Vino Market in Midlothian.

★★★

Italy, $30

This is certainly the most unusual rosé I’ve ever tasted, and definitely one of the most beguiling. It is made from erbanno, an obscure grape that, according to the importer, is only grown in this one vineyard in Lombardy. Because there is no official designation for the wine, it cannot be vintage dated, but the code L ERB17 on the bottle tells you all you really need to know. And it’s delicious, so don’t just think of it as a one-off opportunity to check another grape variety off your spit-bucket list. The color is a bright reddish-orange, and the aroma suggests ripe strawberries, orange peel and mulling spice. The flavors also tend toward the citrusy side, as if you were sipping in an orange grove. Do not drink this straight from the refrigerator! It is best consumed at slightly cooler than room temp. In fact, I left the open bottle on my kitchen counter and enjoyed the wine over two days that way. ABV: 13 percent.

★★★

Bordeaux, $14

Textbook Bordeaux, offering the traditional “pencil” graphite aromas over scents of plum, cherry and blackcurrant. And the wine kept getting better over a few days, suggesting it will last for several years in your cellar, and will reward decanting if you can’t wait. Sustainably farmed, it is packaged in a traditional wooden box for a case. ABV: 13 percent.

Distributed by Le Storie: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Ace Beverage, Cordial Fine Wine & Spirits, DCanter. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington; Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean; Corks & Kegs; J. Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese, Once Upon a Vine (MacArthur Avenue, Stratford Hills) and Union Market in Richmond; Department of Beer and Wine in Alexandria; Grape + Bean (Old Town Alexandria, Rosemont); Tastings of Charlottesville and Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville; Vino Market in Midlothian.

★★★

Italy, $15

This is one of the most compelling rosés I’ve tasted in a long time. Don’t think of easygoing patio pounder refreshment here: The Rosa di Sera, made entirely from nebbiolo, has a serious tannic grip, long-lasting red berry flavors and a hint of saline minerality that holds it all together. Because the Italian appellation regulations don’t include rosé in this region, there is no vintage date on the label; the lot number on the back label indicates it is 2018. Only 100 cases were brought into the United States, so seek this out before it’s gone. Alcohol by volume: 13 percent.

★★★

Italy, $20

Most prosecco is simply pleasant; a nice palate cleanser to start a meal on a festive note. This one is simply delicious, with crunchy green apple flavors, plus melons and Mandarin oranges. It is unusually complex for a prosecco, too, revealing herbs and spices as it warms in the glass. ABV: 11 percent.

Distributed by Le Storie: Available in the District at A. Litteri. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington, Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Department of Beer and Wine and Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Grape + Bean (Old Town, Rosemont), Oakton Wine Shop, Tastings of Charlottesville and Wine Guild of Charlottesville, Union Market in Richmond, Vino Market in Midlothian.

★★★

Willamette Valley, Ore., $45

Oregon pinot noir is my comfort wine; I turn to it when I’m feeling down and need reassurance. Yet the Antiquum Farm made me feel like Luke Skywalker entering the cave and encountering Darth Vader. It seemed to challenge my entire perspective. Earth, wind and fire — all the elements are here. Far from comforting, this is a challenging, thrilling, compelling wine. Open it two hours before dinner and have more wines on hand, because you will want to savor this as it evolves. Leave some for tomorrow: The conversation will be entirely different. ABV: 14.3 percent.

Distributed by Le Storie: Available in the District at Ace Beverage. Available in Virginia at Department of Beer and Wine, Grape + Bean (Old Town, Rosemont), and Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Vino Market in Midlothian; on the list at Rowland Fine Dining and Shagbark in Richmond, Wild Ginger in Midlothian.

★★★

Champagne, $50

Here’s a delicious wine that just happens to have bubbles. It hails from Le Mésnil-sur-Oger, an area of Champagne that features chardonnay at its height. Think of this wine for dinner. Its richness and depth will match robust dishes, while the bubbles give it some lift to leave you ready for another sip. ABV: 12 percent.

★★★

Italy, $22

This is not your typical sparkling wine. It’s lambrusco, which means it is red, but kind of a deep rosé in color. The bubbles don’t give you the same pressure as champagne, and this is lighter with brighter fruit flavors than most lambruscos. Enjoy this with smoked or cured meats — think charcuterie, pizza or barbecue. ABV: 12.5 percent.

★★★

Ischia, Italy, $24

Cenatiempo is a highly allocated winery from Ischia, a volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples. Biancolella is one of Italy’s amazingly diverse white grape varieties. This wine has amazing aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and jasmine. There’s a fresh salinity, reflecting the sea, perhaps, along with nice texture and concentration. ABV: 12.5 percent.

★★★

Tuscany, Italy, $16

Here’s a chianti to stock up on. The blend is 90 percent sangiovese, Tuscany’s landmark red grape, and 10 percent colorino, a minor Tuscan grape that has been eclipsed as wineries splash international varieties such as cabernet sauvignon into their blends. This wine is modern, in that it shows depth and extraction that suggest techniques of macerating the grapes on the skins, but, well, never mind — it’s delicious. Sangiovese’s flavors of dried cherries and cocoa powder are here, with an impressive depth and length. Enjoy this with just about anything you would think suggests red wine. Alcohol by volume: 14 percent.

★★★

Lombardy, Italy, $30

You read that right: This current release is a 1999 vintage nebbiolo from northern Lombardy. It was aged for 16 years in 100-liter barrels made from Slovenian oak. The wine has developed beautifully, offering a full spice rack of cloves, nutmeg, dried plums and cherries. At $30, it’s a steal for a fully mature nebbiolo. Alcohol by volume: 12 percent.

Distributed by Le Storie: Available in the District at A. Litteri, MacArthur Beverages. Available in Virginia at Camden’s Dogtown Market and J. Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Department of Beer and Wine and Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Grape + Bean (Old Town Alexandria, Rosemont), Oakton Wine Shop in Oakton, Tastings of Charlottesville, Vino Market in Midlothian; on the list at Brasserie Saison in Charlottesville, Saison and Wild Ginger in Richmond.

★★★

Piemonte, Italy, $26

Vespolina is a red grape that produces a light, aromatic and expressive wine. The La Capuccina is the antithesis of the inky, brawny and powerful modern ideal of a red wine. Instead, it floats across your palate like the scent of a rose bush on the other side of a garden wall. Alcohol by volume: 13 percent.

Distributed by Le Storie: Available in Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Crystal City Wine Shop, Grape + Bean (Old Town Alexandria, Rosemont), Oakton Wine Shop in Oakton, Tastings of Charlottesville, Union Market in Richmond, Vino Market in Midlothian; on the list at Rowland in Richmond.

★★★

Tuscany, Italy, $23

This is an old-style traditional Chianti, including the white grapes Trebbiano Gentile and Malvasia del Chianti, as well as red grapes Canaiolo and Sangiovese. Yet the wine seems modern in style, with intense fruit and depth. Its flavors unfold over several hours, rewarding advance planning and a decanter. Alcohol by volume: 14 percent.

Imported and distributed by Le Storie: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Cordial Craft Wine, Beer & Spirits (Union Market), Wardman Wines, Weygandt Wines; on the list at Lupo Verde, San Lorenzo. Available in Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Grape + Bean (Old Town, Rosemont), J. Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Vino Market in Midlothian; on the list at Tavola in Charlottesville.

★★★

Ischia, Italy, $24

The name for this grape translates to “foot of the dove,” and whoever came up with that must have been even more entranced than I was when I sipped this beguiling, savory red wine. It reminded me of a top Loire cabernet franc, with leathery, herbal and meaty flavors, and hints of leather, musk, sage, boxwood and rosemary. Imagine sitting in an herb garden on a warm evening at twilight, when everything around you starts to sing. ABV: 13 percent.

★★★

Italy, $22

This is a wild — and wildly delicious — dry white wine from northwestern Piemonte in Italy. The grape is called malvasia moscato, and it combines the exotic, floral characteristics of both the malvasia and muscat grapes into a raucous dance party of flavors. My notes show pine needles, tropical mango, orange blossom, white tea and jasmine, great concentration, freshness and length. ABV: 13 percent.

★★★

Italy, $30

Moscato d’Asti is not the cheap, sweet, fizzy moscato that was all the rage a few years ago. This style of wine has been around for a long time. While it is sweet and fizzy, the low alcohol helps make it versatile with food — especially brunch and desserts. Christmas cookies, anyone? The Sant’Ilario from Ca’ d’Gal takes moscato toward the serious end of the scale, adding depth and complexity. Its bright berry flavors will still bring a smile to your face. The same producer makes a moscato called “Lumine” that costs $20 and is a bit more expressively fruity. ABV: 5 percent.

★★★

Italy, $30

Blended from chardonnay, pinot blanc and pinot nero (the Italian name for pinot noir), this lovely, lively sparkler bursts with red currant and apricot flavors, plus some toasty yeasty notes. It’s another example of Franciacorta that packs verve and excitement near champagne levels at a more affordable price. ABV: 12.5 percent.

★★★

Piemonte, Italy, $22

Roero white wines, from the arneis grape, remind me of a warm summer day in an orchard when the fruit is just turning ripe. Alberto Oggero’s 2018 vintage offers peach and apricot flavors along with an intriguing herbal note and a refreshing bone-dry finish. Perfect for simple shellfish dishes. ABV: 13.5 percent.